GUSSET OR PLEAT?

I finished the bodice of the Snow White dress. I used Simplicity pattern 2817. I cut out a 5 in width and a 6 in length.

Sleeves are costume satin and the bodice is blue velvet. I thought a different material for the bodice would be nice and keep it from looking to “slick” or “cheap” because of all the satin.

I didn’t like the idea of appliqueing the red tear drop shapes on the sleeves. I know that over time that will not hold up. I am very happy with how the sleeves turned out.  I cut the sleeves into three sections and added red satin inserts. I’m not sure if this is called a gusset or a pleat. It definitely makes the sleeve puffier.